Cracking The Code Of Life

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In the United States, hen eggs come in all kinds of preparations, typically in the morning hours. Prior to the Industrial Revolution, a larger evening meal—“supper”—was standard. When the laboring class went to work in the factories, they started eating prior to their work day and the morning meal concept took hold.

The meal was lighter than what would be found on a menu today—think coffee, a piece of bread, and juice. This changed in the 1920s when eggs and bacon were touted as the all-American breakfast.

The eggs-and-bacon scheme came from Edward Bernays, the notable public relations specialist of his day. Bernays was hired by the Beech-Nut Packing Company to push its surplus of bacon; he convinced a group of doctors to back bacon as the optimal breakfast food.

Eggs were chosen as a breakfast food, simply, because they are available early in the day, as hens lay them on a cycle and farmer is there to collect them. Bernays effectively strung together eggs—a morning yield—with a hearty side of bacon and the idea stuck.

In Chinese cuisine, the hen egg is far older and more multifaceted than Bernays’ eggs and bacon breakfast special. Some historians argue Chinese farmers essentially invented the idea of the domesticated fowl. Archeological evidence of farmsteads in China suggestion hens were domesticated around eight thousand years ago.

In that expanse of time, the egg has gone to exists outside the boundaries of “breakfast not served after 11 a.m.” Take the marbled—or tea—egg for example, which is reminiscent of the plainsong hard-boiled egg, but its preparation is far more thoughtful than boiling water and a dash of salt. To make tea eggs, an egg is boiled and then slowly simmered in a mixture made from black tea leaves and other spices. Often, the classic five-spice powder—anise, cinnamon, cloves, fennel seeds, and Sichuan pepper—is used to give the eggs a distinct taste. When the shell is peeled off, stains from the mixture give the egg a marbled look.


The Duck

Although a similar oval shape to a hen’s egg, duck eggs are larger and richer in flavor and have more useful properties for culinary pursuits. Hidden within the beige shell is a hefty yolk with higher levels of fat, Omega 3, and cholesterol.

Because of the higher cost of raising ducks coupled with a lower yield than the hen, duck eggs are more expensive than most free-range, organic hen eggs, which tends to limit their availability in stores and on menus in the U.S.

Duck eggs are a large part of the culinary landscape in some East and Southeast Asian cuisines as well. In some parts of China, duck eggs are salted in an elaborate process. Prior to being boiled, the egg is packed inside a clay or charcoal paste, salt and water to brine the shell. After being wrapped in paper or sealed in a bag, the egg is stored for several weeks, then washed and boiled.

Balut—a common food in the Philippines, Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia—is a fertilized egg that is incubated for a time, then boiled. The embryo begins to mature in the process; and upon biting into the egg, one might find a beak, soft bones, organics, and even feathers.

In the Western world, this is a controversial concept in terms of ethics as well as public health and safety. Despite being hard to swallow in other parts of the world, it is commonplace to find balut at a busy market in metro Manila, served with salt or chili on the side and an ice-cold beer.

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